Technical aspects of automobiles

My Focus has 90K miles and has been maintained and operated well for
5+ years. Brought it to mechanic several weeks ago for tune-up, tires,
and coolant change. It was my first coolant change, and the coolant
was the yellow/orange stuff. Mechanic flushed and replaced coolant
with green stuff. After about 30 minutes of driving, temp gauge moved
3/4 mark–first time it ever moved past middle. Mechanic said it just
needed to be burped. Picked it up, same problem not resolved. Return
to mechanic, and he said water pump impeller had split apart (and
showed me it broken). While at it, he changed thermostat. Once again,
i drive car, and the little movement on the temp gauge starts after 30
minutes or so. I called him back and said I am still not resolved. He
said he will look into temp gauge issues, and that he ruled out head
gasket, and fans came on at proper temp. Now I’m $1500 down the drain
and have a problem eerily cooincident with having fluid changed. I
trust my mechanic. But obviously I’m interested in not running up
another $1000. The temp gauge generally moves to 3/4 or 2/3 over at
50-60mph. Above 60, it starts nearing 8/10 over. It also occurs at
idle after coming off a highway. I notice what seems to be the air
condition fan on-=something i never noticed outside of summer. When it
clicked off at a light, the temp swung down, which i thought was
strange. It also will cool down to middle range with normal driving,
but then head up again. My issues: water pump looked busted, but
obviously wasn’t affecting system beforehand–or did a coolant flush
bust a fan (I dont think so). I notice the fan on when it shouldn’t be
on–or hasn’t been on before, except during summer with air
conditioner on. Is that an issue? Car is hot with the higher speeds
above 60, but best right after taking off from idle up to 40, where it
tends to not get hotter than 2/3 mark before returning to middle. Any
help or direction would be most appreciated

Hi all,

just got back from looking at the F-150 that I posted about earlier…

good: straight, rust free body, only surface rust on frame and
driveshaft.  Could easily be detailed underneath in a couple weekends.
Only cosmetic issue is a slightly tweaked rear bumper, apparently caused
by towing a trailer from the step bumper and not having a proper
receiver hitch installed.

meh: lots of oil leaks, although it was still full of oil.  All fluids
seem to be old, and I think it needs new front shocks and probably wheel
bearings (slight hum from front end, although that might be the tires,
which were a little low from sitting for several months.  Also a rattle,
but the leading arm bushings looked OK at a visual, although obviously
since I was laying on the ground looking at it with my trusty Mag-Lite I
couldn’t jack it up and wiggle stuff.)  Transmission a little slow to
engage from a cold start at ~30 degrees F, but it did engage solidly.
At about 130K miles I definitely think it’s due for a full fluid change
and bearing repack at a minimum.  However, I have tools, and am used to
the "barn car" change/regrease drill.

bad: A/C is inop, my guess is that all the freon leaked out of the
receiver/dryer as it is pretty rusty and there’s some very minor oil
spotting on the inner fender below it.  Also, and this is why I didn’t
come home with a title in my pocket, the radiator was only about half full.

So what in the experience of those familiar with these vehicles is the
common cause of coolant loss?  Water pump?  Head gasket?  Other?  This
is a 300ci straight six, 93 model year.  Also, is it possible that it is
too cold for the A/C to engage?  Is there some kind of low temp interlock?

Oh- one more question comes to mind.  The oil pressure gauge was solidly
in the middle even after I let the engine get a little warm (I only
drove it around the block a couple times because I didn’t want to get it
real hot with the coolant so low) I assume this is good, but is this a
gauge, or an idiot light with a needle?

I’m kinda half-assed tempted to offer to pay to have the coolant issue
checked out, because I still like the truck.  For 14 years old, it looks
damn good albeit plain, and I’d rather have a straight rust free body
than lots of accessories to break – I’m just looking for a good, basic
work truck.

any opinions appreciated…  I know I’m being picky about a 14 year old
beater truck, but the truth is I already have three cars that are giving
me fits, and the whole purpose of this exercise is to get something that
doesn’t need any major work.

thanks,

nate

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 I have an 86 bronco that is only used off road. I have a real bad
problem with it and i need help. I hjave replaced the coil,
distributor, wires, o2 sensor but i straight wired it to pin 29 of the
computer and before i did that it was coming up with a 41 code now
after it comes with a 42 code. it was running so rich that i almost
passed out. my mechanic says that it has to be in the 0/2 sensor
somehow so what am i suppose to do i have replaced almost everything.

I have been having issues with my 2000 Grand Cherokee V6 that several
shops advised would be replaced by installing a new computer.  I was
having sporadic cylinder misfires, odd stalls, and a weird one where
I
would turn the key to the off position and remove the key and the
jeep
would keep running.

Anyways, I bought a new computer from a salvage yard and just
finished
installing it.  THe Jeep starts up great, but then dies out with a
P1685 error.  I know that that means SKIM error and that obviously
the
new computer doesn’t recognize the key I use.

The question I have now is, what next?  Do I have to take it to the
Jeep dealer to have the computer programmed?  Or can I take it to my
local guy that I trust?

Any help is much appreiciated.

Thanks.

Strange Whine/Screech Sound From Engine

So here’s one I’ve never heard of before. I was wondering if anyone
could help me identify the potential problem, and if it’s even worth
getting looked at.

When I just start my engine, or accelerate at higher speeds, my engine
seems to make a slight screeching sound similar to a worn brake pad.
It’s almost a cross between that sound and fingers on a chalkboard. It
isn’t very loud, and it’s constant (instead of the "wink wink wink" I
usually associate with a loose belt).

Any ideas what it might be? I was worried it was engine grinding, but
I’m totally clueless. The oil is fine, and I threw in an extra quart
for good measure. It’s been cold here in Illinois, but the car still
makes the sound if the engine is warmed up.

It’s a Honda Civic LX ’98, if that’s at all useful.

Thanks for any ideas!
Alex

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Hi. I am 16 years old. I am taking a 2000 Z24 cavalier and am going to
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particularly need knowlege on the engine size, trany size and axle
size. BUT EVERYTHING HELPS! thank you for any imput.

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Hello
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