Technical aspects of automobiles

odometer malfunctioning

Hi I posted this in August 2006 but no one answered

It ststill seems to work just intermittently

My odometer works when I am traveling over 60mph and not below. I
replaced speed sensor on transmission and it didn’t help. It is a big
problem because fuel gauge is also not working and I have to guess
how
many miles I have driven and have run out of gas once!  Trip odometer
even travels in reverse at times when below 60  mph the odomreter
feels
like working. Any help would be appreciated. thanks
john

Comments (5)

2000 hyundai accent

the button on the gear shift sometimes sticks, and I can’t shift
gears, any suggestions, the car has been well taken care of,,,, bought
new, and serviced when supposed to.

Comment (1)

2001, 1999 Jeep OEM service manuals on the bay

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=007&sspag…

I have 2 auctions for a 2001 and 1999 OEM service manual. Thanks

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92 Mustang 5 Speed Pops Out of Reverse

My ’92 Mustang Convertible with a 5.0 and 5 speed pops out of reverse.  Any
ideas on what causes this and how hard it is to fix?

Shifter stops are adjusted properly.

TIA!

Bob L.
Lindenhurst, NY

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MEGANE GURU SOUGHT – RELAYS STOP WORKING SOMETIMES (MOST TIMES)

I’m trying to fix a friends megane before he has to scrap it. Its a
shame because its pretty clean car.

Whats happening is that the WIPER relay,

the HAZARD LIGHT / INDICATORS relay,

the CENTRAL LOCKING relay,

a FUEL INJECTION relay

and the DRIVERS ELECTRIC WINDOW relay,

all decide to stop working intermittently. The car won’t start if the
problem is present, but if the car is already running when the
problem
shows up, it will keep running okay, (although as stated none of the
relay related functions can be carried out).

Not only that, the relays will remain in ther present condition when
the fault shows up. In other words, if the wipers are on or the
indicators ar on, when the fault appears, even switching these
devices
off doesn’t affect them. They will keep wiping and flashing no matter
what I do with the control switches.

The problem is that the fault is now present about 99% of the time.
This means that I can’t even get it started most of the time. I end
up
switching the hazard lights on, (although they obviously won’t
actually flash while the fault is present), I then go and sit in the
house, looking out the window.

Once I see the hazards starting to flash, I know I can quickly run
out
and get the car started. If I’m not quick, I miss the opportunity and
have to wait maybe another 2 or 3 hours. I’m tempted to fit a new
Body
Control Unit and an Injector Module, but would like to be convinced
that that will sort it out.

Any advice? Thanks

Comments (3)

hmmm

So exactly how would a dry and wet compression test have shown the
original poster that he had excessive bearing clearance relating to 3rd
  gear and it’s associated syncro rings and sleeves?

I don’t get it. The complaint isn’t excessive oil consumption or spark
plug fouling, in fact it sounds like the original poster is happy with
the way his BMW runs.

No Comments

Battery cables reversed.

If the battery cables are reversed just long enough to make the spark (1
second) what are the consequences?   Is there a fuse fusible link that
is suppose to burn out?

Are there items that might of been damaged?  If damaged would it be
immediate? Are there items I should check?

Thanks

Comments (22)

Help! no heat.

I left my Quest 01 today for changung timing belt, water pump,
thermostat and coolant. Now after that I have almost no heat inside.
My wife who picked up the car also said the engine temperature
dangerously creeping towards 3/4 of scale despite it is 8F outside. I
called the machinc who did the work and he said it might be dirty
radiator. Before he touched my car heat was working completely OK.
What can be a problem and what he could have done wrong? One of the
issue to me although I am not a mechanic can be broken thermostat
although it is new OEM thermostat. Salon heat is very weak.

Comments (3)