Technical aspects of automobiles

Gumout Engine Flush…Good or Paint Thinner?

I saw the Jugs at my Pep Boys. I’m using Auto-Rx on my Corolla now,
though I think it isn’t strong enough. Has anyone used Gumout Engine
Flush? Can it completely screw up my engine or is it a magic bullet for
sludged engines? Any other suggestions for flushing: Schaeffers Neutra
131…??

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posted by admin in Без рубрики and have Comments (9)

9 Responses to “Gumout Engine Flush…Good or Paint Thinner?”

  1. admin says:

    On 29 Jun 2006 20:34:24 -0700, stevelib…@gmail.com wrote:

    >I saw the Jugs at my Pep Boys. I’m using Auto-Rx on my Corolla now,
    >though I think it isn’t strong enough. Has anyone used Gumout Engine
    >Flush? Can it completely screw up my engine or is it a magic bullet for
    >sludged engines? Any other suggestions for flushing: Schaeffers Neutra
    >131…??

    What are you trying to achieve?
    Are you trying to destroy your engine?
    Even as rugged as a Corolla is you may eventually succeed if you keep
    throwing this crap in the crankcase.

    Don
    http://www.donsautomotive.com

  2. admin says:

    On 29 Jun 2006 20:34:24 -0700, stevelib…@gmail.com wrote:

    >I saw the Jugs at my Pep Boys. I’m using Auto-Rx on my Corolla now,
    >though I think it isn’t strong enough. Has anyone used Gumout Engine
    >Flush? Can it completely screw up my engine or is it a magic bullet for
    >sludged engines? Any other suggestions for flushing: Schaeffers Neutra
    >131…??

    Why do you need to flush it out? Regular oil changes should keep
    everything in check. My advice would be to check for a high detergent
    oil, as lightweight as possible. Run it for a short period, then
    replace it with your regular engine oil.

    Sometimes a flush can be a bad thing. I’ve seen where a flush results
    in the removal of crap in the camshaft journals, ending up with no oil
    pressure to the top end. True, the real problems was worm cam
    bearings, but it sure was effective at making the engine completely
    unusable without a good investment. Sometimes not worth it on an old
    engine.

  3. admin says:

    stevelib…@gmail.com wrote:
    > I saw the Jugs at my Pep Boys. I’m using Auto-Rx on my Corolla now,
    > though I think it isn’t strong enough. Has anyone used Gumout Engine
    > Flush? Can it completely screw up my engine or is it a magic bullet for
    > sludged engines? Any other suggestions for flushing: Schaeffers Neutra
    > 131…??

    If your engine is sludgy, don’t expect anything to clean it out
    overnight.  Anything that *does* clean the engine out overnight is
    probably not good for it.  I would recommend sticking with the Auto-RX
    and using something like Shell Rotella for your rinse oil.

    nate


    replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
    http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

  4. admin says:

    dunno, but one precaution that should be exercised after a flush job on
    a heavily sludged engine – is to drop the pan, and clean the oil pump
    filter screen, they say.

    - Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

    >mho
    >v fe
    >"reduced driving habits – conserves gasoline"

  5. admin says:

    I bought a beater car awhile back, poorly maintained engine-wise.
    Sludged up in the valve heads.  Used some Gunk 5-minute engine flush,
    it cleared it out rather well, but the oil was really bad looking when
    draining out, and got a short-term leak from rear crank seal.

    But, it was old beater car, no real loss if the Gunk harmed the engine,
    which it didn’t, in this case.  I’d hesitate to substitute an engine
    cleaner to fix lack of regular oil-changes [including new filter].


    Knifeblade_03
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  6. admin says:

    Agreed with the others…engine flushing is NOT something you do for
    regular maintenance, and trying to blast a neglected engine clean is
    like playing Russian Roulette, except with one EMPTY chamber…when
    that stuff moves, it’s gonna cause a problem down the line…

    You want something that will slowly clean an engine in manageable
    increments? Do what was suggested above…Marvel Mystery oil works
    well, I’ve heard 10-%15 ATF with an oil change works well, I only flush
    as a last ditch attempt to see if an engine can be revived before
    needing a complete teardown and inspection, and even then don’t expect
    much…had a couple through the shop that were so neglected they
    stopped running due to low oil pressure cutoff, revived one or two by
    running 25-30% Kerosene in coinjunction with new oil for 10 or 15
    minutes, then change the oil again to loose the kerosene and flush any
    remaining from the engine, then once more to remove any sludge or
    traces of kero after a couple hundred miles…it works about as often
    as it doesn’t…kind of a crapshoot..


    jeffcoslacker
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  7. admin says:

    Knifeblade_03 wrote:
    > I bought a beater car awhile back, poorly maintained
    > engine-wise. Sludged up in the valve heads.  Used some Gunk
    > 5-minute engine flush, it cleared it out rather well, but
    > the oil was really bad looking when draining out, and got a
    > short-term leak from rear crank seal.

    > But, it was old beater car, no real loss if the Gunk harmed
    > the engine, which it didn’t, in this case.  I’d hesitate to
    > substitute an engine cleaner to fix lack of regular
    > oil-changes [including new filter].

    When I was a kid, we use plain old kerosene in the crankcase.
    Drain the oil, fill with kero, run for 5 minutes, kill it, drain
    it (the kero coming out was more like oil than kero!), fill with
    a 50/50 mix of kero/30W, run until hot or about 15 minutes,
    drain, put in oil, drive a week, drain and refill again.  Forgot;
    takes three oil filters, too, two during and final one
    afterwards.  Worked wonders on my 54 Chevy, 55 Ford, and then a
    friend’s 57 Chevy.  Never hurt a thing that we ever knew of.  I
    DON"T think I’d try that with today’s cars though!

    pop

  8. admin says:

    Since you found the AC lines under the hood are cold it could be a
    problem with the heater / AC controls inside the truck.  The climate
    control module might be telling the AC compressor to run, but it is not
    opening or closing the right air doors to route air for the interior
    vents through the evaporator.  If you can reach the evaporator and feel
    that it is cold then that would indicate the AC is ok but something is
    wrong in the climate control system.  If your truck has rear AC then
    there might be a second evaporator that is more accessible then the one
    under the dash.  You might also check that the vents blow heated air
    when the climate control is set to heat and Hot.  If the vents just
    keep blowing ambient temp air with the heater on then that would be
    another sign the climate control system has a problem.  Hopefully the
    problem is intermittent and the system will start working again at
    least for the weekend!

    The http://www.rockauto.com catalog has pictures of many of the AC system
    parts on your truck that might help you identify the different
    components you are looking at.

    - Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

    alexboh…@yahoo.com wrote:
    > Hi All,

    > I have a well maintained ’03 Chevy Suburban Z71 which is no longer
    > producing cold, air conditioned air.  I haven’t played with AC for many
    > years so any guidance will be greatly appreciated.

    > First, the compressor is running, the hose running from the compressor
    > to under the firewall is cool to the touch.  The return hose is
    > obviously warm.

    > There is a smaller tube coming from the firewall running over the
    > condensor which is ice cold, but there is a joint (compression fitting)
    > a foot later where the coolness basically stops…this tube continues
    > on to the top part of a ‘Y’, one section running back to the firewall
    > (warm), the bottom part running to something behind the headlight
    > (warm).

    > I’m at a loss here, and can’t think of anything else to describe.  I
    > can take pictures if it will help any.  The problem I face is that
    > there are no local shops that can get us in until after the weekend,
    > but my pregnant wife isn’t going to survive the 8 hour vacation trip on
    > Saturday in the heat and humidity.  I think you see my problem.  ;)

    > Thanks for any help and suggestions.
    > Alex

  9. admin says:

    Hi Tom,

    Thanks for taking the time to describe the troubleshooting steps, as
    well as the things to start looking at.  First, I realized from
    rockauto.com that things aren’t always as they seem…I called the
    accumulator a condensor.  Anyway, the good new is that I found the rear
    air is working, which should get us through the long weekend.  Good
    call!  Further testing shows that switching the front controls to heat
    does produce hot air, while switching it back to cool produces ambient
    air again.  I’m not sure what this means, or how best to determine the
    cause of the problem, but it probably means it is time to take it in
    for a checkup.

    Any last thoughts on the problem would be appreciated. Thanks again for
    your advice and willingness to help!

    -Alex

    - Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

    t…@rockauto.com wrote:
    > Since you found the AC lines under the hood are cold it could be a
    > problem with the heater / AC controls inside the truck.  The climate
    > control module might be telling the AC compressor to run, but it is not
    > opening or closing the right air doors to route air for the interior
    > vents through the evaporator.  If you can reach the evaporator and feel
    > that it is cold then that would indicate the AC is ok but something is
    > wrong in the climate control system.  If your truck has rear AC then
    > there might be a second evaporator that is more accessible then the one
    > under the dash.  You might also check that the vents blow heated air
    > when the climate control is set to heat and Hot.  If the vents just
    > keep blowing ambient temp air with the heater on then that would be
    > another sign the climate control system has a problem.  Hopefully the
    > problem is intermittent and the system will start working again at
    > least for the weekend!

    > The http://www.rockauto.com catalog has pictures of many of the AC system
    > parts on your truck that might help you identify the different
    > components you are looking at.

    > alexboh…@yahoo.com wrote:
    > > Hi All,

    > > I have a well maintained ’03 Chevy Suburban Z71 which is no longer
    > > producing cold, air conditioned air.  I haven’t played with AC for many
    > > years so any guidance will be greatly appreciated.

    > > First, the compressor is running, the hose running from the compressor
    > > to under the firewall is cool to the touch.  The return hose is
    > > obviously warm.

    > > There is a smaller tube coming from the firewall running over the
    > > condensor which is ice cold, but there is a joint (compression fitting)
    > > a foot later where the coolness basically stops…this tube continues
    > > on to the top part of a ‘Y’, one section running back to the firewall
    > > (warm), the bottom part running to something behind the headlight
    > > (warm).

    > > I’m at a loss here, and can’t think of anything else to describe.  I
    > > can take pictures if it will help any.  The problem I face is that
    > > there are no local shops that can get us in until after the weekend,
    > > but my pregnant wife isn’t going to survive the 8 hour vacation trip on
    > > Saturday in the heat and humidity.  I think you see my problem.  ;)

    > > Thanks for any help and suggestions.
    > > Alex

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