Technical aspects of automobiles

electric window problem

Vehicle: 2000 Pontiac Grand Am 2-door

Just recently my driver’s window stopped working.  Luckily it was in
the up position.  The driver’s side window switch for the passenger’s
side works just fine.

The dual switch is about $85 at the dealership and is non-returnable
if it’s not the problem.

The question is can I ground any of the pin-outs on the connector to
activate the window to make sure the switch is the problem?

The last time this happened the window operated sporadically, and I
knew it was the switch, this time the window will not open at all.

Thanks

MB

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posted by admin in Без рубрики and have Comments (20)

20 Responses to “electric window problem”

  1. admin says:

    On Oct 22, 12:38 pm, MAB <mab…@post.com> wrote:

    - Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

    > Vehicle: 2000 Pontiac Grand Am 2-door

    > Just recently my driver’s window stopped working.  Luckily it was in
    > the up position.  The driver’s side window switch for the passenger’s
    > side works just fine.

    > The dual switch is about $85 at the dealership and is non-returnable
    > if it’s not the problem.

    > The question is can I ground any of the pin-outs on the connector to
    > activate the window to make sure the switch is the problem?

    > The last time this happened the window operated sporadically, and I
    > knew it was the switch, this time the window will not open at all.

    > Thanks

    > MB

    Assuming sedan with V6 due to lack of info.

    Remove the switch but keep it connected at both connectors.  Locate
    the 8 wire connector and the gray and dark blue wires within it.  Turn
    the key to "run".  Apply a positive jumper wire with some sort of
    narrow point to the gray wire (through the back of the connector) to
    lower the window.  Apply jumper to dark blue wire in the same manner
    to raise the window.

    On those same two wires, you can check for continuity to ground to
    verify the ground side of the circuits.  Use a DVOM or powered test
    light between the bare metal door striker on the body and each of
    these wires; expect to see near zero ohms (with switch plugged in, NOT
    pressing any buttons).

    Toyota MDT in MO

  2. admin says:

    On Oct 22, 3:02 pm, Comboverfish <comboverf…@yahoo.com> wrote:

    - Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

    > On Oct 22, 12:38 pm, MAB <mab…@post.com> wrote:

    > > Vehicle: 2000 Pontiac Grand Am 2-door

    > > Just recently my driver’s window stopped working.  Luckily it was in
    > > the up position.  The driver’s side window switch for the passenger’s
    > > side works just fine.

    > > The dual switch is about $85 at the dealership and is non-returnable
    > > if it’s not the problem.

    > > The question is can I ground any of the pin-outs on the connector to
    > > activate the window to make sure the switch is the problem?

    > > The last time this happened the window operated sporadically, and I
    > > knew it was the switch, this time the window will not open at all.

    > > Thanks

    > > MB

    > Assuming sedan with V6 due to lack of info.

    It’s the coupe, as I listed "2-door" at the top of my previous post,
    so I think
    the configuration could be different.

    MB>

    - Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

    > Remove the switch but keep it connected at both connectors.  Locate
    > the 8 wire connector and the gray and dark blue wires within it.  Turn
    > the key to "run".  Apply a positive jumper wire with some sort of
    > narrow point to the gray wire (through the back of the connector) to
    > lower the window.  Apply jumper to dark blue wire in the same manner
    > to raise the window.

    > On those same two wires, you can check for continuity to ground to
    > verify the ground side of the circuits.  Use a DVOM or powered test
    > light between the bare metal door striker on the body and each of
    > these wires; expect to see near zero ohms (with switch plugged in, NOT
    > pressing any buttons).

    > Toyota MDT in MO

  3. admin says:

    On Oct 22, 3:51 pm, MAB <mab…@post.com> wrote:

    - Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

    > On Oct 22, 3:02 pm, Comboverfish <comboverf…@yahoo.com> wrote:

    > > On Oct 22, 12:38 pm, MAB <mab…@post.com> wrote:

    > > > Vehicle: 2000 Pontiac Grand Am 2-door

    > > > Just recently my driver’s window stopped working.  Luckily it was in
    > > > the up position.  The driver’s side window switch for the passenger’s
    > > > side works just fine.

    > > > The dual switch is about $85 at the dealership and is non-returnable
    > > > if it’s not the problem.

    > > > The question is can I ground any of the pin-outs on the connector to
    > > > activate the window to make sure the switch is the problem?

    > > > The last time this happened the window operated sporadically, and I
    > > > knew it was the switch, this time the window will not open at all.

    > > > Thanks

    > > > MB

    > > Assuming sedan with V6 due to lack of info.

    > It’s the coupe, as I listed "2-door" at the top of my previous post,
    > so I think
    > the configuration could be different.

    > MB>

    …that explains what engine you have.  Well, thanks then, I guess.

    Toyota MDT in MO

  4. admin says:

    3.4 V6.  I thought you needed to know if it was a 2 door or 4 door,
    because
    obviously the electric window configuration is different.

  5. admin says:

    On Oct 22, 6:14 pm, MAB <mab…@post.com> wrote:

    > 3.4 V6.  I thought you needed to know if it was a 2 door or 4 door,
    > because
    > obviously the electric window configuration is different.

    All information is better than some information.  I knew from
    experience that going beyond engine type would not matter, but the
    basics should always be a requirement if one is asking for help.  And
    yes, I missed the two door part in the message header.

    The tests I outlined are the same except that there is only one
    connector to the master window switch on the coupe.  You’ll still find
    your gray and dark blue wires in the single connector, and they
    operate the exact same way.

    Toyota MDT in MO

  6. admin says:

    Thanks,

    I’m seeing a light blue and dark blue and a couple of hard to describe
    colors, but I’m not sure which would be gray.  Also which would be the
    positive?  They are labeled A-H when I look at the side of the
    harness.  "A" is actaully a dual wire–two very thin wires in the same
    recepticle.

    With all the schematics that Haynes has, I’m surprised that they don’t
    have one for the window connectors.

    Thanks

    MB

    On Oct 22, 8:05 pm, Comboverfish <comboverf…@yahoo.com> wrote:

    - Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

    > On Oct 22, 6:14 pm, MAB <mab…@post.com> wrote:

    > > 3.4 V6.  I thought you needed to know if it was a 2 door or 4 door,
    > > because
    > > obviously the electric window configuration is different.

    > All information is better than some information.  I knew from
    > experience that going beyond engine type would not matter, but the
    > basics should always be a requirement if one is asking for help.  And
    > yes, I missed the two door part in the message header.

    > The tests I outlined are the same except that there is only one
    > connector to the master window switch on the coupe.  You’ll still find
    > your gray and dark blue wires in the single connector, and they
    > operate the exact same way.

    > Toyota MDT in MO

  7. admin says:

    On Oct 23, 9:47 am, MAB <mab…@post.com> wrote:

    > I’m seeing a light blue and dark blue and a couple of hard to describe
    > colors, but I’m not sure which would be gray.  Also which would be the
    > positive?

    See below.  RE: positive — each wire is either B+ or ground depending
    on the position of the switch.  Again, just follow my diagnostic
    instructions to the letter.

    > They are labeled A-H when I look at the side of the
    > harness.  "A" is actaully a dual wire–two very thin wires in the same
    > recepticle.

    D is dark blue, E is gray.  These two wires should be as thick or
    thicker than any other wires in the connector since they supply motor
    current.
    The way it looks to me on Alldata is that terminals A-G each have a
    wire while H does not.  So it is an 8 cavity conector with only 7
    wires.  I can’t verify this without *seeing* it in person.  Diagrams
    are sometimes inaccurate.  The "double wires" at A are used to control
    the light inside the switch.  You don’t need to worry about that set
    of wires; they are considered one circuit for all practical purposes
    anyway.

    > With all the schematics that Haynes has, I’m surprised that they don’t
    > have one for the window connectors.

    Speaking of inaccurate diagrams…

    Toyota MDT in MO

  8. admin says:

    It does have only 7 wires.  Here’s a rather poor cell phone pic, but
    should give some idea.

    http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j202/mkepalmer/connector.jpg

    I understand that the gray is down and blue is back up, but which wire
    do
    I jump these with to supply power?  One of those has to be 12V or 5V
    in.

    Thanks

    MB

  9. admin says:

    On Oct 23, 2:22 pm, MAB <mab…@post.com> wrote:

    > It does have only 7 wires.  Here’s a rather poor cell phone pic, but
    > should give some idea.

    > http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j202/mkepalmer/connector.jpg

    > I understand that the gray is down and blue is back up, but which wire
    > do
    > I jump these with to supply power?  One of those has to be 12V or 5V
    > in.

    12 volts.  Motors operate on 12 volts in any car you are ever likely
    to see.  The B+ feed from the 25A Power Window circuit breaker is a
    brown wire (G) at that connector.

    You may want to invest in a test light or DVOM to better help you help
    yourself.

    Toyota MDT in MO

  10. admin says:

    Thanks Combover.  I’ve got a fairly good MM,  so I guess I could have
    used that since when
    plugged in the connector is grounded.  I’m just a little squeemish
    because I want to get 2 more years out of this car w/o smoking the
    electrical system.

    Thanks

    MB

    On Oct 23, 5:53 pm, Comboverfish <comboverf…@yahoo.com> wrote:

    - Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

    > On Oct 23, 2:22 pm, MAB <mab…@post.com> wrote:

    > > It does have only 7 wires.  Here’s a rather poor cell phone pic, but
    > > should give some idea.

    > >http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j202/mkepalmer/connector.jpg

    > > I understand that the gray is down and blue is back up, but which wire
    > > do
    > > I jump these with to supply power?  One of those has to be 12V or 5V
    > > in.

    > 12 volts.  Motors operate on 12 volts in any car you are ever likely
    > to see.  The B+ feed from the 25A Power Window circuit breaker is a
    > brown wire (G) at that connector.

    > You may want to invest in a test light or DVOM to better help you help
    > yourself.

    > Toyota MDT in MO

  11. admin says:

    Yes I knew the electrical system operates on 12V but I thought some
    devices were
    actually 8 or 5.  I could be/am wrong.  I know that molex connectors
    on a computer mother board operate at 5V even though the rest of the
    board is at 12.

    On Oct 23, 5:53 pm, Comboverfish <comboverf…@yahoo.com> wrote:

    - Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

    > On Oct 23, 2:22 pm, MAB <mab…@post.com> wrote:

    > > It does have only 7 wires.  Here’s a rather poor cell phone pic, but
    > > should give some idea.

    > >http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j202/mkepalmer/connector.jpg

    > > I understand that the gray is down and blue is back up, but which wire
    > > do
    > > I jump these with to supply power?  One of those has to be 12V or 5V
    > > in.

    > 12 volts.  Motors operate on 12 volts in any car you are ever likely
    > to see.  The B+ feed from the 25A Power Window circuit breaker is a
    > brown wire (G) at that connector.

    > You may want to invest in a test light or DVOM to better help you help
    > yourself.

    > Toyota MDT in MO

  12. admin says:

    In article
    <1193167366.848697.217…@v29g2000prd.googlegroups.com>,

     MAB <mab…@post.com> wrote:
    > It does have only 7 wires.  Here’s a rather poor cell phone pic, but
    > should give some idea.

    > http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j202/mkepalmer/connector.jpg

    The gray wire is the one in between the two blue ones.
    From left to right they are
    a) gray=lights
    b) black=ground
    c) tan=right window
    d) dk blue=left window
    e) gray=left window
    f) lt blue=right window
    g) brown=12 volt positive

    > I understand that the gray is down and blue is back up,

    No, no, no…

    When the gray wire is positive and the blue wire negative, the
    motor runs in one direction.
    When the gray wire is negative and the blue wire is positive, the
    motor runs in the other direction.

    The motor itself is electrically isolated, there is no up or down
    wire, the motor runs in a particular direction depending on which
    of the two wires (gray and dk blue) is connected to positive and
    which is connected to ground.

    > but which wire
    > do
    > I jump these with to supply power?  One of those has to be 12V or 5V
    > in.

    The brown wire is 12 volts positive.
    The black wire is ground.
    If you connect a jumper between the brown and blue and a jumper
    between the black and gray, the motor will run in one direction.
    If you connect a jumper between brown and gray and a jumper
    between black and blue, the motor will run in the other direction.

  13. admin says:

    On Oct 23, 10:46 pm, aarcuda69062 <nonel…@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

    - Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

    > In article
    > <1193167366.848697.217…@v29g2000prd.googlegroups.com>,

    >  MAB <mab…@post.com> wrote:
    > > It does have only 7 wires.  Here’s a rather poor cell phone pic, but
    > > should give some idea.

    > >http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j202/mkepalmer/connector.jpg

    > The gray wire is the one in between the two blue ones.
    > From left to right they are
    > a) gray=lights
    > b) black=ground
    > c) tan=right window
    > d) dk blue=left window
    > e) gray=left window
    > f) lt blue=right window
    > g) brown=12 volt positive

    > > I understand that the gray is down and blue is back up,

    > No, no, no…

    > When the gray wire is positive and the blue wire negative, the

    Well, I could not get either window to come down by using the metal
    contacts on the back of
    the box.  I’m wondering if I’m doing something wrong or there is a
    better way?

    MB

    - Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

    > motor runs in one direction.
    > When the gray wire is negative and the blue wire is positive, the
    > motor runs in the other direction.

    > The motor itself is electrically isolated, there is no up or down
    > wire, the motor runs in a particular direction depending on which
    > of the two wires (gray and dk blue) is connected to positive and
    > which is connected to ground.

    > > but which wire
    > > do
    > > I jump these with to supply power?  One of those has to be 12V or 5V
    > > in.

    > The brown wire is 12 volts positive.
    > The black wire is ground.
    > If you connect a jumper between the brown and blue and a jumper
    > between the black and gray, the motor will run in one direction.
    > If you connect a jumper between brown and gray and a jumper
    > between black and blue, the motor will run in the other direction.

  14. admin says:

    In article
    <1193277925.713316.218…@q3g2000prf.googlegroups.com>,

     MAB <mab…@post.com> wrote:
    > > The gray wire is the one in between the two blue ones.
    > > From left to right they are
    > > a) gray=lights
    > > b) black=ground
    > > c) tan=right window
    > > d) dk blue=left window
    > > e) gray=left window
    > > f) lt blue=right window
    > > g) brown=12 volt positive

    > Well, I could not get either window to come down by using the metal
    > contacts on the back of
    > the box.  I’m wondering if I’m doing something wrong or there is a
    > better way?

    What "back of the box?"

    Un-plug the switch, verify 12 volts available by connecting a
    test light between the brown and black wires, then jumper the
    wires as earlier stated.

  15. admin says:

    On the opposite side of where the connector connects there are
    corresponding contacts little metal plates or contacts  that I thought
    were for diagnosing the switch.  Am I wrong?

    MB
    On Oct 24, 10:41 pm, aarcuda69062 <nonel…@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

    - Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

    > In article
    > <1193277925.713316.218…@q3g2000prf.googlegroups.com>,

    >  MAB <mab…@post.com> wrote:
    > > > The gray wire is the one in between the two blue ones.
    > > > From left to right they are
    > > > a) gray=lights
    > > > b) black=ground
    > > > c) tan=right window
    > > > d) dk blue=left window
    > > > e) gray=left window
    > > > f) lt blue=right window
    > > > g) brown=12 volt positive

    > > Well, I could not get either window to come down by using the metal
    > > contacts on the back of
    > > the box.  I’m wondering if I’m doing something wrong or there is a
    > > better way?

    > What "back of the box?"

    > Un-plug the switch, verify 12 volts available by connecting a
    > test light between the brown and black wires, then jumper the
    > wires as earlier stated.

  16. admin says:

    In article
    <1193291199.454872.144…@t8g2000prg.googlegroups.com>,

     MAB <mab…@post.com> wrote:
    > On the opposite side of where the connector connects there are
    > corresponding contacts little metal plates or contacts  that I thought
    > were for diagnosing the switch.  Am I wrong?

    Why don’t you just unplug the switch, set it aside and jumper the
    wires at the plug to see if the window motor runs?

    Brown to dark blue and black to gray, window motor runs one
    direction

    Brown to gray and black to dark blue, window motor runs in
    opposite direction.

    If the window motor runs, then it’s the switch.
    If the window motor runs but the window doesn’t move, it’s the
    regulator.
    If the window motor doesn’t run, it’s likely the motor.

  17. admin says:

    Thanks,

    That’s what I’m going to do as soon as it stops raining!
    Unfortunately no garage or car port.

    Thanks again

    MB
    On Oct 25, 9:23 am, aarcuda69062 <nonel…@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

    - Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

    > In article
    > <1193291199.454872.144…@t8g2000prg.googlegroups.com>,

    >  MAB <mab…@post.com> wrote:
    > > On the opposite side of where the connector connects there are
    > > corresponding contacts little metal plates or contacts  that I thought
    > > were for diagnosing the switch.  Am I wrong
    > Why don’t you just unplug the switch, set it aside and jumper the
    > wires at the plug to see if the window motor runs?

    > Brown to dark blue and black to gray, window motor runs one
    > direction

    > Brown to gray and black to dark blue, window motor runs in
    > opposite direction.

    > If the window motor runs, then it’s the switch.
    > If the window motor runs but the window doesn’t move, it’s the
    > regulator.
    > If the window motor doesn’t run, it’s likely the motor.

  18. admin says:

    I get nothing at all.  Checked the passenger’s side and I’m able to
    raise and lower by jumper.

    So I guess it’s the motor..?

    MB

    On Oct 25, 8:23 am, aarcuda69062 <nonel…@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

    - Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

    > In article
    > <1193291199.454872.144…@t8g2000prg.googlegroups.com>,

    >  MAB <mab…@post.com> wrote:
    > > On the opposite side of where the connector connects there are
    > > corresponding contacts little metal plates or contacts  that I thought
    > > were for diagnosing the switch.  Am I wrong?

    > Why don’t you just unplug the switch, set it aside and jumper the
    > wires at the plug to see if the window motor runs?

    > Brown to dark blue and black to gray, window motor runs one
    > direction

    > Brown to gray and black to dark blue, window motor runs in
    > opposite direction.

    > If the window motor runs, then it’s the switch.
    > If the window motor runs but the window doesn’t move, it’s the
    > regulator.
    > If the window motor doesn’t run, it’s likely the motor.

  19. admin says:

    On Oct 30, 11:42 am, MAB <mab…@post.com> wrote:

    - Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

    > I get nothing at all.  Checked the passenger’s side and I’m able to
    > raise and lower by jumper.

    > So I guess it’s the motor..?

    > MB

    > On Oct 25, 8:23 am, aarcuda69062 <nonel…@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

    > > In article
    > > <1193291199.454872.144…@t8g2000prg.googlegroups.com>,

    > >  MAB <mab…@post.com> wrote:
    > > > On the opposite side of where the connector connects there are
    > > > corresponding contacts little metal plates or contacts  that I thought
    > > > were for diagnosing the switch.  Am I wrong?

    > > Why don’t you just unplug the switch, set it aside and jumper the
    > > wires at the plug to see if the window motor runs?

    > > Brown to dark blue and black to gray, window motor runs one
    > > direction

    > > Brown to gray and black to dark blue, window motor runs in
    > > opposite direction.

    > > If the window motor runs, then it’s the switch.
    > > If the window motor runs but the window doesn’t move, it’s the
    > > regulator.
    > > If the window motor doesn’t run, it’s likely the motor.- Hide quoted text –

    > – Show quoted text –

    Assuming the test was done properly, the motor or wiring from the
    switch to the motor in the driver’s door is the culprit.  There’s a .
    000001% chance your switch just happens to concurrently be defective
    too, but if motor is not spinning when you apply power and ground to
    it’s two terminals (in both directions) then the motor is bad.  Are
    you sure power and ground was available at the jumper points?

    This is why, several posts ago, I outlined specific tests step by step
    that anyone could follow, so I wouldn’t have to answer ambiguous
    followup questions.

    Toyota MDT in MO

  20. admin says:

    On Oct 30, 11:42 am, MAB <mab…@post.com> wrote:

    - Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -

    > I get nothing at all.  Checked the passenger’s side and I’m able to
    > raise and lower by jumper.

    > So I guess it’s the motor..?

    > MB

    > On Oct 25, 8:23 am, aarcuda69062 <nonel…@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

    > > In article
    > > <1193291199.454872.144…@t8g2000prg.googlegroups.com>,

    > >  MAB <mab…@post.com> wrote:
    > > > On the opposite side of where the connector connects there are
    > > > corresponding contacts little metal plates or contacts  that I thought
    > > > were for diagnosing the switch.  Am I wrong?

    > > Why don’t you just unplug the switch, set it aside and jumper the
    > > wires at the plug to see if the window motor runs?

    > > Brown to dark blue and black to gray, window motor runs one
    > > direction

    > > Brown to gray and black to dark blue, window motor runs in
    > > opposite direction.

    > > If the window motor runs, then it’s the switch.
    > > If the window motor runs but the window doesn’t move, it’s the
    > > regulator.
    > > If the window motor doesn’t run, it’s likely the motor.- Hide quoted text –

    > – Show quoted text –

    Regarding my last response:

    I guess its fair to assume that you used the identical jumper points
    for the right and left window, so if the right side worked, then
    disregard what I said about being sure that your jumper points have
    valid B+ and ground.

    Toyota MDT in MO

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