Technical aspects of automobiles

Archive for May, 2013

4 cyl mercury-smooth idle-huge missing (on off) 2000 rpm up

new fuel filter-30psi @fuel rail-vacu leak check with bubbles/propane-
ok-pulled plug 1 at time and smooth idle went to miss with each one
pulled-Throttle or crank sensor? Bad valve spring? (On way to rent
code puller)

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95 Toyota Camry AM2 fuse blew due to suppression capacitor in distributor

Hi guys,

95 Toyota Camy
105,000mi
4 cyl

I had no spark,  no check engine light.

The distributor did turn, the timing belt was good.

The AM2 fuse was blown,  I replaced it, it blew immediatly on ignition
on.

I Googled around and found the most likely cause for an AM2 fuse to
blow is a shorted suppression capacitor on the feed to the coil inside
the distributor.

I removed the 2 pin connector to the distributor that feeds the coil,
put in a new fuse, fuse did not blow.

Used an Ohm meter and verifed that there was a short to ground in the
distributor.  Removed distributor clipped the wire to the capacitor
and verifed the capacitor was shorted.    I installed a new 0.1uF 200V
capacitor from the coil + to gound, put it all back together and
everything is fine.

My thanks  to all who  helped!!!!!!

Much thanks for the links to the on-line manuals, I had the condenesd
manual but the online manuals have more detail …thank you!!!!

And it would have taken me a longer time to narrow the short down to
the cap (I was ready to chase after the injectors…)  except for the
fact that the distributor suppression capacitor was all over Google as
the cause for an AM2 fuse to blow…so I appreciate it when people
post their experiences which is why I am adding my expeirence to the
pile…

thanks again!

Mark

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I need to reverse a shock number…

I need to do a sort of reverse lookup for a Monroe shock number.

I have some new shocks here that I do not remember what vehicle they were
for. I know the Monroe number (20803 and 20801) but their site only seems to
let me search from the model.

I need to search from the part number… Any ideas on a site that could do
that for me?

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All about car ac systems

http://car-ac-systems.blogspot.com/

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Ideas for Rustproofing Floorboards in old car

   I just checked under the car today (1985 Chevy Caprice) to look at
the condition of the floorboards. There is a lot of rusty metal down
there.  In the center there is a 3 foot wide swath which is coated in
transmission fluid, from a slow trans leak which has preserved that
area, where it has blown back from wind during driving. No rust where
there is trans fluid.  :)

   I was thinking of coating the other, rusty areas of the floorboards
with something like   chassis grease, or motor oil,  trans fluid, or
spraying it with Permatex.  My instinct is to go with the chassis
grease, lots of it, applied with an old rag.

  Is there some other grease that is specifically made for coating
rusty metal to prevent further corrosion ??

Thanks in advance for any ideas !

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Torn CV boot prognosis

My car (FWD) has a torn rubber  boot covering the
passenger’s side CV joint.

The mechanic said it wasn’t possible to silicon it up
or anything – it had to be replaced, at a cost comparable
to that of replacing the joint entirely (minus parts of course).

He also said that if I did nothing, it would dry up within
about a month because the grease lubricating it would
get flung out the tear in the boot.

Is this all correct, and what should I do?

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2002 windstar heater door malfunction

My wifes windstar does not have heat.When i start the car you can hear
a clicking sound coming from the lower dash console.I removed the
console shroud and found a white box that apparently controls some
sort of air mixing door.The box tries to go one way on cold and the
other on heat.Is the problem most likely in the motor or the control.

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www.autorepairforums.net

www.autorepairforums.net

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'94 Safari, location of EGR solenoid and thermo switch

94 Safari, AWD, W engine, PS/PB/AC. Pretty sure I have the 4L60E
trans.

Got three quarters of the way to work the other day when the engine
starts stumbling and wants to stall. Finally realized that something
was upsetting the low idle, causing the oil pressure to drop and the
engine to try to shut down.

Pulled trouble codes 28, 32, and 45.

I removed the EGR valve and found a small piece of carbon-like crud
wedged between the poppet and the housing, preventing the valve from
returning to its closed (?) position. I’m guessing that’s the cause of
this episode.

I’d also like to check the EGR control solenoid and thermostatic
vacuum switch, but where are they?

While I’m waiting for your answer I’ll be trying to re-plug the air
leak through the intake manifold gasket that causes an IAC error and
racing engine. Pulling the EGR valve disturbed the silicone rubber
patch that kept that problem at bay for the last several years.
<sigh>

Thanks,

Mike D.

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Zero Interference Engine

SWMBOs’ Subaru managed to melt down one of the timing belt idlers this
past weekend. It’s a 1997 Subaru Legacy with the 2.2L engine.

Upon removing the plastic cover I found that one idler (the one that is
toothed) was completely missing. There were also two very impressive
pea-sized holes melted in the bottom of the cover. It looks as if the
outer surface made its way straight out the front of the cover as well.

All of this happened at speed on the highway and resulted in a dead
no-run situation. I’m sure the belt slipped far enough as to render the
timing way off.

I’ve ordered the parts to fix it up, but I’m worried about whether or
not she’s munched a couple of valves or a piston or three. I did crank
the engine over for just a few revolutions before I found what the
damage was, and heard no valve-slapping kinds of noise, so I’m hoping
there is no other damage. I’d rather not pull the motor to find out.

Anyone know off-hand if this is a zero interference motor or not?

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