Technical aspects of automobiles

Archive for April, 2013

Why no up-shift (auto transmission)

Hello all !

I was diagnosing why my A/C was not working and decided
to go to the parts store for freon … I backed out of the driveway,
put the selector into Drive – there was a slight hesitation (before
going into gear), then a "clunk" sound – very similar to the sound
of driveshaft u-joint [cups] that are missing all the bearings – or
as if  you rev the engine slightly and drop the transmission from
Neutral to Drive.

So I push on the accelerator and the car speeds up, but it never
switches into 2nd gear (or any other gear). I stop, try again,
this time letting my foot off the gas to "coax" the transmission
into switching into 2nd.  (reverse works).

I drive back to the house and check the fluid – it’s about 1 quart
low, so I put in a quart – still same problem. (I had just driven the
car home from the office and had it parked about an hour with
no signs of issue).

The only thing I did prior to leaving for the store: to determine if
the compressor was not running because of too-low freon, I
jumpered the low-pressure cycling switch plug to engage the
compressor clutch.

My thoughts for next step is to change out the tranny filter and
new fluid …. and possibly "blindly" purchase the two shift
solenoids (1st to 2nd, etc) and replace them while I have the
tranny pan down. (no filter change in 50k miles).

Any other thoughts/diagnosis?

Thanks, Calder …
1995 Chevy Camaro Z28, 150k miles.

.
posted by admin in Без рубрики and have Comments (10)

Bulk vs. Bottled oil at places like Jiffy Lube

I am on the road often enough where I need to get my oil changed at
Jiffy Lube or other convenient type of oil change place. Is there any
quality or performance difference between the bulk oil they use or the
optional bottled oil (penzoil) that they offer for $10-$15 more?
I have heard many horror stories regarding Jiffy Lube, although I
guess I am lucky with 220K on my Honda Accord. Taking my car to the
dealer just for an oil change on the road seems ridiculous. Just
wondeingr what others look for in an oil-change place to insure
quality work (those who fear Jiffy Lube) when they can’t do it
themselves.
Thanks

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Aerostar airbag code 45

I’m posting this simply to correct some erroneous information in an
earlier post.  I have a ’92 or ’93 Aerostar that had, when I got it, a
constantly blinking airbag light.  It was blinking out a code 45.

Earlier posters correctly indicated that this means that a crash
sensor is not functioning properly.  They have misidentified the
location of the affected sensor.  The sensor that this code refers to
is mounted not behind the kick panel, but on the front radiator
support.  Being outside, of course, means it is exposed to the
elements.  What happens is that it develops corrosion (rust) between
it and the component it is mounted to, which severs its ground
connection, causing the fault that triggers the light.  It is easy to
reach: it is accessible through the grille.

The solution is equally simple: unbolt it, sand off the rust on the
sensor (a small black box retained by only one bolt, if I recall
correctly) and off its mount, apply some dielectric grease (to inhibit
further corrosion in the future), and reassemble.  Voila!  The light’s
now off when you turn on the ignition, and airbag functionality has
been restored.

Apparently the previous owner of my van found the same posts I did:
scrape damage to the headliner and windshield indicates that he had
removed the inside panel to access the crash sensor located by the
driver’s foot.  What a pain!

It may be years overdue, but I know there are others out there with
1992 / 1993 (and other years) Ford Aerostars with flashing airbag
lights.  Put away your black electrical tape and break out the 1/4
inch drive ratchets!

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Is there any way to verify a car's alignment (without bringing it to a shop)

Is there any way to verify a car is reasonably in alignment
(camber,toe, caster) without bringing the car to a shop?

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diesel engine oil

hi to all!!!i just wanna ask if the oil (mobil delvac monograde 1140)
i put in my 2004 adventure glx car suits or good to my engine?and is
it possible to combine delvac 1140 and 1340?

any recommedation of brand (not synthetic) if i changed oil to obtain
high performance of my engine?

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po

nm

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2003 Nissan Sentra Se-r Spec v surging

Hi All, I am currently a student at WyoTech, and during my last
class(fuel management systems) i clean the throttle body on my car.
After I did that, i found a surging problem when coasting to a stop (6-
spd manual).  I have followed the diagonostioc tree that Alldata, and
Shop Key respectively have given me, i refuse to condemmn my ECM till
i have done everything under the sun. I have used a Modis in global
and specific mode, i have looked at freeze frame data, live data
strems, i have check the voltage and resistance of the MAF, the TPS,
and the ect, all were within in manu specs. The maf cofused me though,
from the ecm i was getting a voltage reading on 1.4 (spec is 1.1-1.5v
at idle), but on a dvom it was reading 2.8-3.1v.  I have checked and
re-checked the grounds for the ecm, tps, ect, and maf, i do have
aftermarket intake, but the car was running fine before the throttle
body cleaning.  If anyone can give me any more ideas, please, i am
trying hard to understand this. I have been tearing my hair out.
Thank you for taking the time to read this.  PS the surging happens
comin off the freeway, in town when the car is warmed up.

Chad

posted by admin in Без рубрики and have Comments (2)

Why no up-shift (auto transmission)

Hello all !

I was diagnosing why my A/C was not working and decided
to go to the parts store for freon … I backed out of the driveway,
put the selector into Drive – there was a slight hesitation (before
going into gear), then a "clunk" sound – very similar to the sound
of driveshaft u-joint [cups] that are missing all the bearings – or
as if  you rev the engine slightly and drop the transmission from
Neutral to Drive.

So I push on the accelerator and the car speeds up, but it never
switches into 2nd gear (or any other gear). I stop, try again,
this time letting my foot off the gas to "coax" the transmission
into switching into 2nd.  (reverse works).

I drive back to the house and check the fluid – it’s about 1 quart
low, so I put in a quart – still same problem. (I had just driven the
car home from the office and had it parked about an hour with
no signs of issue).

The only thing I did prior to leaving for the store: to determine if
the compressor was not running because of too-low freon, I
jumpered the low-pressure cycling switch plug to engage the
compressor clutch.

My thoughts for next step is to change out the tranny filter and
new fluid …. and possibly "blindly" purchase the two shift
solenoids (1st to 2nd, etc) and replace them while I have the
tranny pan down. (no filter change in 50k miles).

Any other thoughts/diagnosis?

Thanks, Calder …
1995 Chevy Camaro Z28, 150k miles.

posted by admin in Без рубрики and have Comments (10)

Bulk vs. Bottled oil at places like Jiffy Lube

I am on the road often enough where I need to get my oil changed at
Jiffy Lube or other convenient type of oil change place. Is there any
quality or performance difference between the bulk oil they use or the
optional bottled oil (penzoil) that they offer for $10-$15 more?
I have heard many horror stories regarding Jiffy Lube, although I
guess I am lucky with 220K on my Honda Accord. Taking my car to the
dealer just for an oil change on the road seems ridiculous. Just
wondeingr what others look for in an oil-change place to insure
quality work (those who fear Jiffy Lube) when they can’t do it
themselves.
Thanks

posted by admin in Без рубрики and have Comments (24)

Aerostar airbag code 45

I’m posting this simply to correct some erroneous information in an
earlier post.  I have a ’92 or ’93 Aerostar that had, when I got it, a
constantly blinking airbag light.  It was blinking out a code 45.

Earlier posters correctly indicated that this means that a crash
sensor is not functioning properly.  They have misidentified the
location of the affected sensor.  The sensor that this code refers to
is mounted not behind the kick panel, but on the front radiator
support.  Being outside, of course, means it is exposed to the
elements.  What happens is that it develops corrosion (rust) between
it and the component it is mounted to, which severs its ground
connection, causing the fault that triggers the light.  It is easy to
reach: it is accessible through the grille.

The solution is equally simple: unbolt it, sand off the rust on the
sensor (a small black box retained by only one bolt, if I recall
correctly) and off its mount, apply some dielectric grease (to inhibit
further corrosion in the future), and reassemble.  Voila!  The light’s
now off when you turn on the ignition, and airbag functionality has
been restored.

Apparently the previous owner of my van found the same posts I did:
scrape damage to the headliner and windshield indicates that he had
removed the inside panel to access the crash sensor located by the
driver’s foot.  What a pain!

It may be years overdue, but I know there are others out there with
1992 / 1993 (and other years) Ford Aerostars with flashing airbag
lights.  Put away your black electrical tape and break out the 1/4
inch drive ratchets!

posted by admin in Без рубрики and have Comment (1)