Technical aspects of automobiles

Archive for January, 2013

a/c recharge ?

hello i just put a can of freon r134a in my 98 dodge stratus and have a ?
about it.  when i put the refill gauge on it at first, it said low ( in the
green area on gauge) then when i put the can of freon onto it and emptied
it, it was in the blue range which means full. now i noticed the more i
reved the engine,then the gauge would fall down toward the green area. does
this mean i need more freon so that when i rev it good it stays in the full
area on the gauge?  thanks Randy

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R12 to R134a conversion tips?

I’ve got a 1993 Mazda 626 with a ruptured discharge (high pressure) line.
I’ll be doing the repair myself.

I’ve got a new line, dryer and O-rings. I also have an 8 ounce can of ester
oil and several cans of R134a refrigerant.

I know that there is no R12 left in the system (schrader valve has been
loosened and there is no pressure). I also know that at least one can of
stop leak and one can of Duracool (Propane) has been used in this system. At
this point the system has no pressure and contains R12 oil and stop leak
fluid as well as some residual propane.

At this point I know that I should be doing the following:
 - Install the new R134a fittings to the system
 - Flush the current system and remove the R12 oil and other contaminants
 - Replace the line and dryer, using new O-rings
 - Evacuate the system to at lease -29lbs for 30 minutes or more
 - Add the can of Ester oil
 - Fill the system with 20 ounces of R134a (Normally 24 ounces of R12 in
this system)

My questions are these…
 - Can a shop flush and evacuate the system without recharging afterwards?
Will the system hold the vacuum for an hour until I get the car home and
recharge it?
 - If I have a shop flush and evacuate the system I will need to have the
new hose and dryer already installed. Will they be "contaminated" by the
flushing?
 - Is there a method that I can flush the system myself and be sure that
I’ve got the oil and contaminants out of the system?

Thanks!

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2002 F150 PU spark plug replacement question

Greetings,

In looking at the engine, I’m getting the impression that changing these
plugs is gonna be a real chore.  Looks like I might have to remove the
fuel rail feeding the injectors and the rear 2 plugs are going to be
hard to get to even after the rail is out of the way.

Is it as bad as I think?

Thanks,

Gary

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Ping Comboverfish–A/C on Corolla Wagon, and horn…

Apropos of  Toyota MDT in MO’s previous help in my A/C-electric Qs, here’s
an update (and how I spent July 4th)  <g>:

The car is in fact a 91 toyota corolla DX wagon, altho the windshield
sticker says "SUBN".

Solved, but did not fix, the A/C problem.
It’s indeed the low pressure switch, and indeed, the compressor is blowing
warm air.
Clearly low on refrigerant.   :(
Was hoping for a loose wire.   :(  :(

But your help made sleuthing this out very quick!  Bless you!

I’m assuming a shop will evacuate whatever refrigerant is in there, and
replace it with whatever is in use today.
After checking for leaks?
Take it to Toyota, or a decent local mechanic?
Assuming an easy fix on any leaks (hose mebbe), what should this cost,
$-wise, time-wise?

Remember the dangling wire from the non-working horn??
That’s actually a small drain hose!!!!
Go figger…..

And here’s the kicker:
 The horn itself is good.
Found the horn/hazard fuse–good.
Found the horn relay (right next to this fuse):  no voltage in *any* of the
4 prong-slots for the relay.
Checked and rechecked, with someone leaning on the horn at the steering
wheel.

This suggests either a bad horn switch in the steering wheel, or a loose
wire somewhere.
Do horn switches in the steering wheel ever go bad?  Never heard of that
happening.
How would I continue sleuthing this problem??

If I knew what the color code was of the wires at the horn switch, I might
be able to see them under dash/wheel, check for voltage in, and then jump
the switch and check for voltage back to the relay, to at least rule out a
broken/burnt wire in the harness.
Or mebbe just find a disconnected wire somewhere at the wheel?

Any "quick fixes"–alternate horn switch??

Oh, one more thing about both of these problems:
It’s been a while, but the owner says that one of these problems occurred
after a minor fender bender (not even a bent fender) OR visit to a shop, and
one after the car was towed to a shop for some other problem.
Not etched in stone, of course.
Another shop after that couldn’t find the horn problem–probably did what I
did, and went no further.

Possible sabotage?
Hey, Sears was caught doing this…   :)

Thanks again

——
Mr. P.V.’d  (formerly Droll Troll), Yonkers, NY

Stop Corruption in Congress & Send the Ultimate Message:
Absolutely Vote, but NOT for a Democrat or a Republican.
Ending Corruption in Congress is the *Single Best Way*
to Materially Improve Your Family’s Life.
The Solution is so simple–and inexpensive!

entropic3.14decay at optonline2.718 dot net; remove pi and e to reply–ie,
all d’numbuhs

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Re: Is my car salvaged?? URGENT

If your car got listed as ‘salvage’. then that is what is is.

No used car place will put that title on unless they ‘have’ to because
it cuts the value of the vehicle by less than half at least usually.

You bought scrap metal, sorry.  The junk yard will pay at least $50.00
for it around here, sometimes a bit more.

Is it one of those flood vehicles they dumped into/across a couple
states to confuse the DMV paper trail?

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33×9.5 BFG Muds, ‘glass nose to tail in ’00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT’s – Gone to the rust pile…
Canadian Off Road Trips Photos:  Non members can still view!
Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590
(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

- — -

lovegoogle wrote:
> Hello, I bought a car from a private party then I looked it up at
> Carfax. It has a clean title but at the bottom of the report it said
> sold at auction listed as salvage. No red flags just that statement. I
> live in Arizona and that is where I bought it. It came from New
> Mexico. I called New Mexico DMV and they said it was clean too. I
> called an auto auction and they said they sale a good but hard to sale
> cars in a Salvage auction. The reason I am so concern is I am getting
> an Extended warranty and after I have it and need to use it I don’t
> want them saying It is a salvage car and not pay for repairs.I did
> disclose this to the warranty Co. but they want money no skin of them
> they have my money.  I really need the true answer. I looked up many
> Carfax cars and never saw this on any car I looked up. I have a clean
> title from Arizona too. Thank you!!

> Please click here then scroll down
> http://www.carfax.com/viewEmailReport.do?a=X8Pk1jYjQ%2BYM9mq56JsqxK6z…

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Breaking in a new car

Awl–

07 Honda Fit–yeah, I know, it’s only 1/2 a car….  :)
Indeed, as short as an Echo!
4 cyl, 1500 cc, about 110 hp, sposedly almost 35 mpg (Consumer Report)

I ask because the initial mpg’s are awful, between 20-25, mebbe better now,
w/ 500 mi. on it.
Is that normal?

I’ve heard to rev the engine hard, etc.

At what point do you start doing this?
And how hard, what rpm, for how long, etc?  Would like as much detail as
possible.

When is a small 4 cyl broken in?
When do the mpg’s get up to where they’re sposed to be?

How bout 6 cy/8 cyl engines?
If different break-in procedure, why?

——
Mr. P.V.’d  (formerly Droll Troll), Yonkers, NY

Stop Corruption in Congress & Send the Ultimate Message:
Absolutely Vote, but NOT for a Democrat or a Republican.
Ending Corruption in Congress is the *Single Best Way*
to Materially Improve Your Family’s Life.
The Solution is so simple–and inexpensive!

entropic3.14decay at optonline2.718 dot net; remove pi and e to reply–ie,
all d’numbuhs

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Vehicle Speed Sensor Broken, then fixed, and now very sporadic…please help!

Recently while driving on the interstate my speedometer in my 99
Mercury Cougar dropped to zero and my transmission immediately down-
shifted. At first I had no idea what happened, but after hooking-up a
generic code reader to my car I received the P0500 error code telling
me that my vehicle speed sensor had malfunctioned. I went to a local
shop and paid ~$100 to have them put in a new speed sensor. At first
it appeared to work perfectly and I thought my problem was solved, but
later on that day my speedometer once again dropped to zero and my
transmission had trouble shifting from 1st to 2nd and would never go
into 4th gear.  After this happened, I thought that there was
something in my transmission that was actually breaking my speed
sensor and that would be where I needed to start looking.  A few days
ago, however, my speedometer miraculously started working again and my
transmission would shift.  This went on for almost an entire day and I
thought that my car was magically fixed…this was not the case.
Currently, my speedometer will work about 1/4 of the time and when it
is not working, my car will not shift correctly.  Even when my
speedometer is working somewhat, when I am not accelerating my speedo
will drop to zero and my car will downshift…I really have no idea
what is going on.  So here is my question: What else could cause my
speedometer not to work and my car to have trouble shifting if I just
replaced my vehicle speed sensor (output transmission sensor)? Should
I have the wiring checked, or is there something else that could be
causing this. Please help as I am tired of driving in first gear and
getting terrible gas mileage…and I’m sure my transmission cannot
take it much longer. Thanks for the help.

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95 subaru awd system problem

My 95 subaru legacy’s awd system is not working, it only has front
wheel drive. On a hoist with the engine on and the trans in drive only
the drivers side front wheel spins, if I slow it down with my hand
then the passenger side starts to spin, should they not be turning
together? Also a while back it had a problem with the shift lock, it
was stuck in park and a mechanic had to do cut a wire or something to
fix this, could this have anything to do with the awd system. How does
this system operate. Thanks for any help.

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Re: Neat Idea: Homemade hovercraft.

On Jul 5, 6:36 pm, PaPaPeng <PaPaP…@yahoo.com> wrote:

> This is a really neat homemande hovercraft video.

> http://view.break.com/325736

Is hovercraft more energy efficient that cars on wheels?
Your post also reminds me of a recent development in hybrid car.
According  to a recent MOTOR TREND article,

"In a small city car weighting 1100 pounds,  two 100-liter (26.4
gallon)
cylindrical tanks pressurized to 4350 psi provide 60 to 90 miles of
city
driving range."

Can hovering car powered by pressurized air increasing fuel
efficiency
as well as reducing pollution?

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Mobil 1 0W-40 in a 2004 WRX

Thought of doing it.  I heard something about the possibility that
Mobil has gone to different base lubes in their North American
offerings, save their 0W-40.  I also tend to go a bit longer than
severe intervals along with most short trip driving in cold temps.

I live in the San Francisco Bay Area, although I may go into the
mountains.  I don’t know if this interval is going to extend into the
winter months when I might visit Lake Tahoe or Yosemite.

I figure this should be OK.  I hear Subaru uses 5W-40 oils in the UK
for the same engines.

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