I am seeing all these guys on Ebay that are selling manuals on CD . Where on
the net are these guys getting these ? I see no reason to spend $5.00 on
shipping for a CD . Is there a place where I could get a manual in pdf.
format over the net for the above pickup truck ?
Thanks,
Raz

I see one of the new Japanese models has this, and I think a model of
Ford does. I am sure there are others.  Anyway, how is the ratio
programmed?  Does the engine run at only a single speed?  What is the
basic program that selects the ratio?  With the torque curve on most
current engines, it seems you’d have to run a pretty high engine rpm
to get good performance, but that would be very wasteful of fuel at
light load.  So I suspect the engine is NOT run at a constant speed,
and that the actual commanded ratio is a fairly complex combination of
road speed and throttle position.

I’ve got a Celebrity boat which has been having carburetor trouble
lately.  The carburetor is a Rochester Quadrajet Carburetor, Model
4MV, Rochester No.17083515.  It is used on a 1985 Chevy Marine engine,
V6/229 cu.in./ 185 Hp.  Droplets of gas can be seen in primary bores
(both sides) dripping from somewhere stalling out the engine after a
few minutes.  A new carburetor ran fine for a year but the same
problem is back again.  The original carburetor was rebuilt a few
times but the problem persists.

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks,
Eric

Good evening,

   I was wondering if anyone might have an idea as to why my long term fuel
trim in high (+25% usually).  This causes a minor nuisance at startup but
otherwise I have no perfrormance or drivability issues to speak of.  My fuel
economy has never been worse though.

Here’s the data…

RPM 751 (verified ok)
Ign Timing Advance -8.5d
Intake Air Temp- 12C
TPS – 1%
O2 bank 1 – 0.040 (switches to .8-.9 with no issues)
O2 bank 2- 0.275 (seems slow to switch – maybe this is the issue?)
Load value – 3.1%
Long Term Fuel Trim- 25%
MAP Sensor- 39 kPa
Coolant Temp- 93C

The vehicle is a 95 GMC JimmySLT 4×4

Does the MAP and Timing info seem ok?

Thanks.
Andrew.

I reconnected my 1964 Fords ac system. I replaced the condenser and
receiver
dryer with generic ones and hooked it all back up. Still has the York
AC compressor. It held vacuum for 2 days. When I went to put freon in
it and could only get a little more then one can in. The high side
plumbing  gets
hot and there is some cooling in the car but not a lot. You can see
freon running
past the sight glass. The pressure gauges only show a 10 psi
difference between the high side pressure and low side pressure. The
pressures run around 80 on the low side and 90 on the high side,
varying up and down depending on engine speed but always about 10 psi
apart. To try and test the compressor I used the valves on the
compressor to close the hose end and just leave the port connected for
pressure readings. When I close the high side it will run the pressure
up past 300 psi. But when I close the low side it only pulls it down
to 55 psi.

Any thoughts on what the problem is? I’m thinking its either bad
expansion valve or bad compressor. Most new systems have
no trouble pulling the low side down to 25 psi or less but I don’t
know what these yorks are supposed to be able to do.  

I want to give my carrera 4 a new look does anyone know of a
reasonable update body kit for porsche 996 to 997. I would also like
to find a shop that could install it i am located in Brooklyn, New
York and would like to use a shop that is close to me thank you

Question for the tech’s. Try to give as much info as possible here:
I have a 93 GMC that has a lack of power during acceleration. I had
to
replace the battery. Truck sat for about a week without being ran,
(before
battery change) after battery change and letting truck idle for a bit
to
warm it up, it seemed to have no power. Was also backfiring up through
the
TB. I took it for a drive and had to return home, as I had no power.
After
opening hood when I got home I noticed the exhaust manifolds were
glowing
red-hot. I checked timing, checked battery connections, grounds etc.
checked
voltage at battery and at alternator. Everything checked out ok. I
looked to
see if the exhaust pipes were plugged, nope! It seems to do it more
when at
operating temp. Also it idles just fine. When I give it some gas it
loses
the power. Could the timing chain have jumped a tooth?? Or would I be
hearing backfiring all the time, not just off idle?

HOW DO I GET THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT TO GO OFF WITH OUT PAYING TO HAVE
IT RESET?

I have 1.6 liter ’87 BMW. I am having trouble with it’s Pierburg 1B2
carburetor (cold start and idle). Replacement parts are ~200 euro. In
local Weber shop I was told that I can replace it with Weber 32 ADF
(can anyone confirm this?) for ~300 euro.

So now I have:
  75@5800 [hp@rpm],  ~80 [hp/ton], 110(80)@3200 [Nm(lbft)@rpm]

With new carb I should have:

  90@6000 [hp@rpm], ~100 [hp/ton], 123(91)@4000 [Nm(lbft)@rpm]

Currently I feel lack of power during acceleration. I also have Audi 100
2.3 liter:

 136@5500 [hp@rpm], ~100 [hp/ton], 188(139)@3000 [Nm(lbft)@rpm]

I am not a sporty driver, I drive most of the time in slow city traffic.
I was wondering how would compare new BMW setup with Audi with the same
hp/ton ratio, but different torque. I am not talking about 0-100km/h
(0-60mp/h). I am interested in acceleration in third gear during
overtaking. I knew that it is not just the meter of power and torque,
there is also a gear ratio… but I think that power/weight and torque
are the decisive ones.

–
      ___   ____
     /__/  /    \      ** Registrovani korisnik Linuksa #291606 **
    /  / \/  /\  \     ** Registered Linux user #291606 **
   /__/\____/–\__\    ** http://counter.li.org/ **

Hey guys!!
I have a 2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT.
The car used to overheat a lot not to the highest point cause I would
catch it on time to prevent it from getting there. I changed the
radiator, also changed the head gaskets and all the related items.
I’ve been using the car fine ever since but for some reason no matter
how much coolant/water mix I add into the cooling system, the engine
seems to kick it back out after some time. If I am not monitoring the
water reserve of the car, the car can easily overheat. I noticed that
a couple of days ago when I got back from a trip and drove my car  for
about an hour. The engine was throwing hot vapor out on the reserve
tank. I guessed it had no water so I started adding water until it
cooled down slowly and the engine went back to normal temperature.
I don’t understand why the engine is not working well. The water that
the engine kicked back seemed dirty (brownish color) and now that I
filled it up again it’s starting to behave like that again.
Please let me know what I could do to find out the problem since the
car works fine besides that issue and I really want to get it fixed as
soon as possible.

Regards,

Teo