I used my rear window on my 2001 sporttrak today and now the window will not
go back up.
I am getting a blown fuse at location 17 on the inside but since my manual
has been stolen, I have no idea if #17 is my problem.  It figures just as
soon as cold weather is here to stay, it does this crap. I stuck a spare
fuse of a higher amperage and it blew out too. I need a fuse layout if
anyone has one.

My son drove about 500 miles last Friday night.  About halfway he got
off the highway for a "pit stop" and when he came to a stop at the
light at the exit ramp the car stalled.  He had to hold his foot down
on the gas to get it to start.  For the rest of the trip he had to put
the car in neutral and give it a little gas to keep it from stalling at
stop lights and stop signs.  There was an continues to be no "check
engine" light.

I have replaced the fuel filter, replaced the spark plugs (two were
burned quite badly), replaced the spark plug wires, cleaned the
throttle body including the passage to the IAC, removed the IAC and
cleaned it wtih throttle body cleaner (it was quite dirty on and around
the plunger that goes through the orifice), and replaced a couple of
vacuum lines (I found one off) and one dried and cracked.

Now…it will start cold with now trouble.  It will idle pretty well.
However, when it sits and idles…or is driven and then stops…it
develops rough idle.  It it idles under a load (with the a/c on) it
idles rough and stalls.  Every time it stalls…you have to hold the
gas down to get it to start.

I have looked for a way to get the codes out, if there are any, without
going to a shop and having it scanned.  I found one on line…but..it
didn’t work.

Before I take it to a shop to have the codes pulled I am wondering if
anyone has any ideas.

Question, I have 2 new Dunlop SP40′s in front of my sedan, and
in the rear, I am thinking of getting something better, like
Michelin HydroEdge.

Is this a good idea or should I keep all 4 tires the same, plus the
spare? (this would allow ease of rotation)

Dunlop SP40 seem OK, don’t know how they perform in the rain.

Hi all

I’m looking for a parts truck for my 1995 Ford Ranger. Extended cab 2.3
liter motor, 5 speed manual transmission. What years are compatable?

Thanks

Pete

I have a 96 ‘Suburban’ (http://www.chevroletforum.com/m_14957/tm.htm#)
with 156,000 miles on it. The turn signal clicker keeps clicking no
matter what. The turn signal indicator on the gauges does not light
during this or even the outside turn signal lights. I have already
replaced the flasher under the dash board but it has made no
difference. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated,

–
sheltn4
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Hi, it’s a ’92 Pontiac Grand Prix LE 3.1 V6, auto, air, 4dor in an
elegant off white.
The snificuntuther drives it home fine last night and calls up to say
"she no start" this afternoon. It’s 34 degrees out. It cranks and you
can smell a little gas. It doesn’t even pretend to fire. It has a new
serpentine belt. I pull a couple of plugs and hold them up to the
block. No spark. I check the fuses, which are fine. I play my trump
card and jiggle the wires. I read up a bit and can’t figure out where
the CAS sensor is located. This is the first and cheapest thing to
replace, right? The engine is in sideways with the pulley end towards
the passenger side. There’s no old style distributor, just what looks
like a two tier rack that purportedly contains 3 coils, an ignition
module plus the plug wires. Is this correct?
In my way of looking at things, the rack is facing the front of the
car and is on the right side of the block so if you have directions
please consider being specific as repair on newer cars doesn’t come
naturally to me. It isn’t obvious to me where the flywheel is either.
I guess that’s where the CAS is. Is it accessed from underneath with
the car on blocks? If the timing chain (belt?) had snapped it would
sound like a bucket of bolts when it cranked, right?
The other thing is how do I tell if I have a 24x or whatever CAS?
VIN from the registration starts with: 1G2WH54TXNF,…etc.
Weird thing is why would it drive home fine and then contract sudden
sensor death syndrome while parked overnight? It hasn’t been running
progressively worse or anything in recent weeks. These things usually
happen on deserted logging roads at night or on the way to airports,
weddings or job interviews, not while you’re sleeping.
Thank you for your time, wm.

Do you know where I can find the Chilton’s book time for replacing a
heater core in a 1982 Cutlass Supreme without purchasing the book?  I
have looked everywhere, and can’t find anything.  Thanks for your help!!

www.Cars-For-Free.com

A pretty cool site and opportunity you might want to check out.

www.Cars-For-Free.com

Hey guys!
I have a 2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT.
My car was running fine until yesterday (no warnings, etc) that I gave
it to a person to do a paint job on it.
When I got the car I noticed that the Battery light was on as well as
the Brake warning light in the panel.
Also I noticed that my radio was reset to default (which gave me a hint
that the battery got discharged at some point).
I read in the manual that the brake warning light might mean that the
brake fluid needs to be refilled, however I checked and everything is
fine. The light is on still. Also when I took the car to check for the
brake fluid and shut it down, and then tried to start the engine, the
car wouldn’t start (the battery died). I got some assistance to start
the car and both lights stay iluminated. If I accelerate the car to
high RPMs then the lights turn off but as soon as the RPM is back to
idle or normal RPM for driving around the lights stay on.
I had the alternator checked about 5 months ago and some parts were
fixed. I am thinking that the battery will need to be changed for the
lights to be off completely. Am I on the right track? I don’t
understand why the brake light is on if the fluid is ok and brakes seem
to be fine as well.
Any suggestions are welcome.
As always thank you very much for your help.

Regards,
Teo

I have a Buick Ultra that has air suspension.  Rencently the back
raises up to the maximum and stays there.  I have to take the fuse out
of the system – to keep this from happening.  Any ideas on how to
isolate this problem?  Thanks,  Kurt