Technical aspects of automobiles

Archive for November, 2010

Finding exhaust leak under hood

Hi all – car is a 1985 Corolla SR5, 224k miles.

When the engine is first started, even if it’s not fully cold, I can
hear some exhaust noise from under the hood, primarily when
accelerating. What would be the best way to pinpoint where it is? It’s
definitely under the hood somewhere. It goes away after a couple of
minutes of driving.

Thanks all

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Total Jeep Burn Out……………..not recommendable

I don’t know if this is planed this way, but to me it looks like this
guy is destroying his Jeep. They call it "Total Jeep Burn Out", but it
almost looks like Jeep Burn Up :

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toyota directionals

1993 Toyota Corolla (lost manual years ago)  Both directionals stopped
working today.  Checked the 7.5,15 and 20 fuses and all seem to be
working.  Any ideas?  Thanks.

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engine temp goes up when running air conditioning


I have a 2000 Mazda 626 which recently began overheating when I run the
air condition. Without running the AC the car has been able to tolerate
2+ hours of stop and go traffic while maintaining the engine temp at
near mid gauge *around 3.5 the temp start goign up near top gauge, but
then came down running hor air into the cabin). The coolant levels
seems ok at present as well. Any suggestions on what could be wrong /
things I could do? Would degreasing the engine possibly help? Any
particular parts of the engine I should look for debris?




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ignition lock 91 jeep cherokee

How do I remove the ignition lock from 91 jeep cherokee?

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WTB: A/C gasket for 1975 El Camino for the Evaporator tube to Drier.

This is for my friends vehicle. It’s a ’75 Chevrolet El Camino with the
350cu. He needs the bowl shaped gasket for the tube that comes off of
the evaporator and hooks up to the Filter Drier. I’ve looked in Four
Seasons brand catalog and can find them in there.

Anyone know a source for older vehicle a/c gaskets?


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1997 Cutlass Supreme

1997 Olds Cutlass Supreme 3.1 V6 approx. 90,000 miles
In about 6 months three times the car overheated, the radiator overflow tank
bubbled out, temp gage went up to red etc……I let it cool, topped off
with antifreeze/water and for the most part it went back to normal.
Previously I had replaced aging dexcool anti-freeze and because the stuff
had "jelled" some (no overheating problem at that time) I used a radiator
cleaner etc. (I eventually cleaned and replaced fluid twice). During the  6
months I replaced the thermostat and had a water pump go out. In those
months we did several long trips of a couple thousand miles and used it as
our daily driver…..Then for the last overheating adventure I had some
steam out of the exhaust and water in the oil. Now I’ve torn it down and
more or less as expected found a bad lower manifold gasket (leaking water
into the manifold)……I pulled the heads and the gaskets were fine….
presently a machine shop is testing them……While the manifold gasket
addresses the current "chocolate milk oil" I don’t see how it addresses the
earlier apparent "exhaust gas leaks" into the cooling system.

If the heads check out any best guesses?

When reasembling any hints or tips?

Thanks  Rod

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Intermittent Starting – 'Lazy' Starter Solenoid or …?

Intermittent Starting – ‘Lazy’ Starter Solenoid or …?

I’ve got a 90 Nissan 240SX 4cyl 5spd w/ about 140K mi. About 10% of the
time  or more(started recently) you turn the key to start and nothing
happens. Try again and it ‘usually’ starts on 2nd or maybe 3rd try.
I’ve discovered if hold hold the key in the start position for several
seconds (5+?) it often does start cranking after waiting. Most other
times it starts fine  without incident.

I’ve cleaned the cables though they hardly needed it – the cable crimps
are also easily visible and show no signs of corrosion.

I went ahead and replaced the battery – after watching it for a couple
weeks noticed moisture kept forming around the negative terminal and
mild corrosion was just starting. The battery was going on 9 years old

Connections at starter solenoid and engine/body are excellent – clean
and snug. (the car is kept clean, operated in hot dry conditions, we
rarely even get rain).

Since it was reasonably accessible I isolated the clutch starter switch
– that checks out OK.

Sooooo – I’m starting to think starter solenoid may be getting weak,
lazy…? Any suggestions before I spring for a new solenoid or starter?


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When Fan on HI spd, AC Compressor Clutch releases…?

When Fan on HI spd, AC Compressor Clutch releases…?

90 Nissan 240SX w/ factory AC – the HVAC fan has 4 speeds + off. Using
the fan at up to speed 3: AC does a pretty good job of keeping the car
cool almost up to triple digit temps outside. Once outside hits 100+ it
can take a while to cool car down but it does ‘OK’ (again max fan speed
of 3 not 4).

However when I turn the fan speed to 4 (HI) the AC compressor (clutch)
kicks off after a SHORT WHILE – maybe a few minutes. And then it only
intermittently cycles with long off duration (say on for 2 min and off
for 10 min…?) and cooling is of course dramatically reduced.

It has a thermostatic temp probe in the evap coil and cycles the
compressor appropriately at speeds 1-3 keeping the car cool. It’s just
at speed 4 that the compressor stops cycling MOST of the time.

I’m at a loss as to what would cause the compressor to cycle only
intermittently or sporadically only when the fan speed is 4 (HI). Could
there be enough electric draw of the fan to affect electric current to
the AC compressor’s clutch? I have to admit I’m kinda grasping on this
one. Thanks for any suggestions or ideas.

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Mazda 626 (year 2000) and the automatic transmission liquid replacement

I have a Mazda 626, year 2000.
I’d like to know if the automatic transmission needs a liquid
replacement and if yes, after what period?

Best regards,

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