Hey all – I may have posted this a while back, I can’t remember, so my
apologies if I have. Car is a 1985 Corolla SR5, 221k miles. Runs well
but uses about a quart of oil every 3000 miles.

I want to put a Weber carb on it to increase the horsepower, right now
it’s making 70 hp (flywheel). What i’m worried about is the emission
controls – the current carb has lots of vacuum lines running to a
variety of sensors and whatever. Weber told me that "these will be
plugged off, cleaning up the underhood area".

Will this make me fail emissions? Or can I still hook up some of this
stuff somehow?

Thanks!

(The exact carb I want to install is a 32/36 Weber 2-barrel, replacing
an Aisin 2-barrel.)

Hi,
Having a problem with an intermittent misfire under acceleration load.
Replaced Distributor cap, it was worn so I replaced it. Couldn’t
release the rotor so I left it even though it was worn. Still getting
the misfire, though it isn’t as bad as it was. How can I replace the
distributor rotor? (93 Camry 2.2L)
Thanks.

http://tinyurl.com/gvxhu

Wow

521 messages

Wow

Name:
Marshall M Onster

Nickname:
MarshMonster

Location:
CrippleCreek

Title:
Runner

Industry:
Transportation

Email address:

marshmonster2…@aol.com
Website or Blog:

Quote:

In an emergency, when allowed
to dry, a wet booger makes for
a decent adhesive.
====================================================

What is a *runner*:

CODE: 222.567-014Buy the DOT:Download/Diskettes/CD-ROM
TITLE(s): SHIP RUNNER (water trans.) alternate titles: floor runner;
runner

Determines location for merchandise on dock preparatory to being
stowed on ship or transported to receivers: Inspects freight to
determine amount of dock space freight will occupy. Directs movement
and disposition of freight on dock. Marks destination of outgoing
freight in large letters on dock, using chalk. Records deliveries in
record book.
GOE: 05.09.01 STRENGTH: L GED: R3 M2 L2 SVP: 4 DLU: 77
——————————————————————————————-

Uses chalk
writes large letters on dock

That’s about all I need to know about you loser.

Lg

Could someone check a VIN for me if they have Carfax? WVWSK61JX3W159235

Well, I’ve been reading up and I’ve heard a lot of bad stuff about
flood salvage titles. I’m thinking of buying one that is advertised as
a salvaged vehicle. I spoke with the guy and he said that it is like
new, electrically and mechanically sound and that the flooding was very
light "just under the seats". The car looks brand new. I searched the
NICB database and it says that this car wasn’t a Katrina or Rita flood
car. Any advice? Is it truly dangerous to drive these cars? I’m just
strapped for cash and I need a deal.  THANKS!

–
notfarnow
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Hi Everyone,

            I’m would like some information on changing the spark plugs
on my 1992 Chevy Lumina. It has the kind of 6-cylinder engine where
three cylinders are in the back next to the firewall and 3 are up
front. The book says I have to disconnect and unplug everything, take
out the window washer reservoir and take out the mounting bolts from
the front of the engine and rock the engine forward. I would like some
feedback and hints about doing this. Do they do that at the shop?
 sounds like alot of work. Thanks for all the help and
suggestions.

Roscoe

I’m trying to replace my car battery but old battery acid has covered
the negative terminal.  I have wiped away the excess acid but it has
gotten in the ridges of the screw, causing me to have a hard time
unscrewing the nut.  Any help or suggestions as to how I can unscrew it
without stripping the nut in the process??

Thanks.

Hi, I have a 1992 Chevy Lumina, and starting about 3 weeks ago, I
noticed water vapor coming from the vent at the base of my windshield,
and then blowing out of my passenger side AC vents when I turned the AC
on.  I also noticed that I wasn’t dripping any water onto my driveway
when parked, even after having the AC on full blast for 20 minutes.

I was able to live with this, because I don’t have the time to go
poking around under my car.  But then, about a week and a half later, I
started leaking coolant.  And this isn’t a small leak, it’s almost a
steady drip that can form a puddle within 30 seconds.  So I started
carrying around bottles of coolant and water in my trunk just in case.
I noticed that the leak there wasn’t coming from the radiator, or so it
seemed, but further back, towards the back-middle of the engine.

I’m not very good with cars, although I learn fast and can read and
understand the mechanics of it, if I had some direction.  Someone
mentioned it could be a cracked/damaged heater core.  Does this sound
feasible?  If so, what’s the best steps to take in determining the
solution?  I’d like to figure out before I try fixing it and/or having
it fixed, so I don’t get ripped off.

I noticed a few weeks ago. That when I put the key in the ignition.
There was some stiffness to turning the key. Sometimes when I wake up
in the morning and insert the key.  I try to turn the ignition on,
sometimes the car won’t turn on after the 1st start. The engine won’t
make a single sound. It always starts the 2nd time though. Is the
stiffness in the ignition and the delay in the car coming on connected?
When the car doesn’t come on, this usually happens in the morning.

when i start to accelerate the engine just revs..then snaps into
gear… if i gently hit the gas a few time it will engage. do i neeed a
new transmission or is there another problem???

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