Technical aspects of automobiles

Archive for July, 2010

Brake light circut

I have a "95" Suburban that keeps blowing the brake light fuse when the
brake pedal is engaged. I have replaced the brake switch and the
multifunction switch in the collum, and have traced the wires along the
frame to the rear of the vehicle and cannot find a short any where.
There is no trailer harness. what else could be the problem?  Thanks
any help would be appreciated.

.
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Can anyone tell the difference between rotors and pads (truthfully)?

I found out from another thread that brake rotors can’t warp and it seems
nobody on this planet can really (reliably) tell the difference between
brake friction materials (because there are no standards whatsoever)
according to
http://www.performanceoiltechnology.com/brakingsystems.htm

So, since I have horrible brake-induced wobble in my Toyota 4Runner, how
DOES anyone  buy the right parts given there are no regulations or
standards to protect us?

We may as well close our eyes and choose randomly for all the lack of
standards. Which leaves me to my most important question, having to trust
in your judgement and experience (which I don’t have).

Where would YOU buy a good quality rotors & pads for a Toyota 4Runner?

Stu

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Weird wiring for a weird car

OK, I am pretty sure it doesn’t matter what specific car I have, other
than that it is a 12 volt negative grounded vehicle, with a separate
alternator, regulator, but I’ll go ahead and say it… this is a 1971
Citroen 2CV.

Here are the two things I think are weird.  The first may not be an
issue, because I haven’t tested any other cars to see if they do the
same thing, but instinctively I think it’s not right.  When I put
connect a test light from the postive to negative battery terminals,
with the ignition OFF, the light lights up.  When I turn the key, so
ignition is ON, but the engine is not running, the test light does not
light up.  That just seems wrong to me, as if the ignition wasn’t
grounded or something.  But you experts tell me.

The second thing, that is more at the heart of the problem I’m having
(charging system not charging the battery) — is this.  With this car,
ignition OFF, the alternator’s + terminal should have power, and
indeed, the test light lights up.  And, both the Field wire on
alternator, and Field and Ignition wires on regulator all do NOT light
up with ignition OFF, engine OFF.

However — with ignition ON, engine OFF, all FOUR of those wires light
up! — though, I would estimate that the + terminal of Alternator and
the Ignition wire of the regulator are getting more volts than the
Field wire on both Alternator and Regulator, because the light is
brighter on the + or ignition wires.

Now, someone advised me that in that last scenario, ONLY the Field
light should be on unless the battery is discharged (granted, which
mine probably is), but I still think there’s something screwy going
on…. My next step is going to be bypassing the harness and connecting
wires directly between Regulator Field and Alternator Field, and
Regulator Ignition to Battery Positive Terminal.

Any tips/suggestions/name calling?

Thank you,

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1996 Ford F-150 Electrical Cranking Issue

Hi.  I have a 1996 Ford F-150, 5.0L.  Somtimes when I turn the key to start
it, it makes a click sound instead of starting.  This is not the
click-click-click-click of a low battery, but just one click.  Sometimes it
will start on the first key turn.  Any ideas?  Starter wire loose maybe???
I think that if it were the battery, it would do it all the time, right?
The battery connections are tight and corrosion free.  The battery is a
yellow top Optima.

Thank you.

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ECU Applications Reference Book/Manual

Hello,

Is there any book/manual where I can search for the OEM information to
determine the ECU applications?

By example:

OEM Part #
94BB-12A650-DB

Applicable for:
– Car X, motor X, year X, etc.
– Car Y, motor Y, year Y, etc.
– Car Z, motor Z, year Z, etc.

Thanks.

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revving an engine to "warm it up"

I recently had a discussion on this topic. I have heard that revving
the engine may do harm and does little to "warm" the car up. This is an
older car with an engine that has been modified. This guy revvs the
engine at the house and still seems to have trouble making it down his
driveway (about 1/4 mile steep downhill) without stopping and revving
his engine halfway down and then again at the bottom. Is this type of
"warm up" accomplishing anything or is he just destroying his car?

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engine codes

I have a small block chevy iam trying to find the year cubic inch and
horsepower it would probably be in the 60s the numbers on the
passengers side front block  are T0107HCR and the numbers on the block
on the drivers side are 985880 and what we be the best plug for this
engine thanks

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High emissions at idle

I have problems with high HC emissions at idle. The engine runs fine,
ignition timing is at specs and other emissions are below the limit. When I
run the engine at fast idle, HC readings fall but at idle they slowly creep
over the limit.

This is a friend’s 2001 3-series BMW with 90k miles, has new plugs and the
engine idles smoothly.


TIA,
Leon

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1990 Olds Cutlass Ciera PCV Valve

Where the heck is this thing?  The aftermarket repair book shows a
picture of it on the 3.3 but it’s not there on my car.  I’ve looked all
around and it is nowhere to be found.  It’s supposed to be in front of
the first plug on the front left side.  Help heheh

Joseph

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Advanced wheel alignment advice

I took my car in for a wheel alignment last week, because I was
getting speed wobbles. After the alignment, the wobbles were worse.

Before I take it back for them to fix, I’d like to get an understanding
of what actually needs to be done to fix it, so I can instruct them
in what to do.

The wobbles occur between speeds of 60 – 90km/h, in a straight
line. At any angle of more than a few degrees, the wobbles disappear.
By "wobble" I mean that if I loosen my grip on the steering wheel,
it jerks back and forth a couple of degrees at about 5Hz.

At higher speeds there is no steering wheel wobble, but the whole
car vibrates (eg. if i have two coins in the centre console then they
emit a low tone), and it feels less stable than usual.

I have a lower front suspension than stock, so there is about 1.5
degrees of camber. Camber is not adjustable. Also , I think my
car has been in a collision before I bought it because one side’s
caster is 5 degrees and the others is 6 degrees and this is not
adjustable.

At the first alignment, the guy set me a toe-in of about 0.4 degrees.
I think the toe is the only adjustable parameter on the front wheels.

Since I have previously had my car stable and without speed
wobbles, I guess there is some particular toe setting that is
optimal. Is this likely to be more toe, or less? Is it possible that
I may want to have the left wheel and the right wheel with
different amounts of toe to compensate for the caster problem?

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