In article <5…@exodus.Eng.Sun.COM> gc…@ssf.Eng.Sun.COM (Gary Chin) writes:
>I have a 1980 Oldsmobile with a 350 V8 4bbl. carb.
>Returning from North Lake Tahoe to San Francisco,
>the engine stalled on Hwy 80 at the Nut Tree Restaurant.
>It would start and stall repeatedly, so that we could
>only drive to the next exit.  After waiting for about
>an hour, the car would start and run around the block
>only to stall again.  After sleeping in a motel that
>night, the car started fine and we drove to the Bay
>Bridge toll plaza where it stalled again.

>Is there a test to see if the problem is vapor lock
>or some other fuel system blockage?

If this trip was within a few weeks of posting date, vapor lock
can be safely eliminated….rarely happens at 30 degrees.  

Sounds more like blockage…although the temperature has been
cold enough to make icing due to water in the gas a problem as
well…     make sure you check ALL of the fuel filters….and
the fuel pump as well.  If you find nothing, try a little
alcohol in the gas tank to absorb the water.

Being new to the net, I have a few questions.

I just got an Audi 5000S turbo (Audi 200) and the previous owner
removed the radio, and I have a small problem in installing a new
CD player.

The car has a factory audio system that has dash speakers, a
component (woof,tweet) in the front doors, a tweet (?) or mid in
the rear doors, speakers (woofs?) in the rear deck, and dual
headphone jacks on the rear deck for rear seat passengers.

But no radio,

So, does someone have a factory radio wiring diagrams so that I can
install my Sony CDX-7580, or any other experience with this setup
and a new head unit?

All the install guys want to rewire the thing and squeeze money out
of me. In other words, I think they do not want to take the time to
find out what the wiring is. (bloody twits…)

–
the good guys!               Sakura-mendo, CA

      Internet:  mfol…@sactoh0.SAC.CA.US

I’d just notice that one of the rear wheels on my 1989 Mazda 323 was
wearing unevenly. Specifically, the outer edge was being worn more
than usual. From my little experience, this means that the camber
needs adjustment.  But is the camber adjustable on this car? I took
off the wheels and couldn’t see any adjustment points. Also could
incorrect toe-in cause this problem?  Do I need to get a new set of
tires for the dealer to do this type of alignment (as one shop
claims)? I realize that I may need to get a new tire after the
alignment but I didn’t think a new tire is needed to do the alignment
itself.

Also should I get a full 4 wheel alignment even though the other three
tires look fine.

BTW the car is a base 323 hatchback.

                                        Thanks,

                                                George

My brother owns an ’85 Mustang GT with a Borg-Warner T-5 manual
transmission.  He is having trouble with the synchro on 2nd gear (he
also reports that 1st and 3rd are not far behind).  The simplest
problem, I would think without tearing the thing apart, which would
cause this would be a bad/split synchro cone.

The problem, however, is where to get the sucker.  He went to a
transmission shop and they would only sell it to him if they installed
it.  The Ford dealer in the Chicago area (where he lives) told him the
only way to get it was by buying the whole output shaft assembly.  This
costs mega$$, in fact, over half of what a shiny new T-5 would be from
Ford Motorsport.

I went to the local autoparts store/machine shop and asked them.  The
only syncros they showed in their catalogs were for Muncie and B-W T-10
(’65-’73).

Can anybody out there in netland give me some info on where to get
syncro cones for a Borg-Warner T-5 transmission used in an ’85 Mustang
GT?

                                     At whit’s end,
                                     Dan
—
From my Unix ™ work-   | Stuck out here in the middle of Iowa with
the
station to yours.         | ‘buttaters.  ..or is this Idaho? Ohio????
__________________________|_____________________________________________
________
Don’t take life too seriously or you’ll never get out of it alive.
–Bugs Bunny

Didn’t Foyt put a turbine engine into a car for an early 60′s indy
race?  I don’t think it ever ran at indy, but since he had a few spare
engines, one was installed into a late 70′s vette.  Required a
tremendous amount of specially fabricated components.  Front end
needed to be redesigned and built to make space.  Fuel, intake,
exhaust, etc needed to be designed and fabricated.  I remember that it
‘idled’ at 60mph.  Torque was strong enough to break the u-joints in
the rear.  Also think that it could smoke the tires most of the 1/4
mile.

Anyone else remember anything about it? Seems to me to have been
written up in one of the car mags.  Also think the engine was a small
stationary turbine.
—
Frank Cannavale III !uunet!ulticorp!frank   The Ultimate Corp, E.  Hanover, NJ
"The Social Democratic government on Friday began dismantling the welfare state
it built, proposing sharp cuts in benefits and state jobs to stop the country’s
economic decline." — AP Stockholm, Sweden 10/26/90
Too bad the US Congress doesn’t read the news, it could learn something.

I have a 1972 MG Midget currently with Goodyear Arriva 145/80R13 tires.
I want to change them to 155/70.  Does anyone have any experience doing
this?  Will it fit?  Please e-mail responses to m…@doc.dss.com.

Thanks
Mark Silverman

I am interested in installing a remote control lock/unlock for
        my 1990 Honda Accord.  The car has electronic locks and I
        obtained the electronics manual from my Honda dealer.

I purchased a January 1991 Modern Electronics and several adds exist
        for such devices.

If anyone has done this on their own I’d be interested in
        receiving e-mail on what parts they used.

I’d like the receiver to work on the car’s DC power.  The
        transmitter should fit on a keyring and have at least 2
        buttons (1 lock, 1 unlock).  I don’t really want to buy
        a whole alarm system for the car.

I will merge the responses and repost them.

Thanks for any help.

–
William Taylor
Cray Research, Inc.
w…@steve.cray.com

In article <2912.27801…@blkcat.fidonet.org> Frank.Mall…@f417.n109.z1.fidonet.org (Frank Mallory) writes:

> HA> Is sandblasting better? An inquiring mind wants to know.

>Sand blasting can heat and warp large sheet metal components. Try to find a  
>place that does blasting with walnut shells.

Hmmm, won’t those walnuts make big dents in the sheetmetal too?  I always
prefered the old sandpaper and elbow grease method.  Takes a hell of a long
time, but you don’t get any damage from walnuts smacking into your car.

My windshield once broke when the car got pelted with walnuts from a
passing tree.  I guess it was pretty mad at the moving van in front of me.

–
"Mister! Hey mister! You lights are popped up, but they aren’t on!"
        "Huh?  Oh gee thanks…<sigh>"
                                An ignorant good samaritan and me in my Bugeye
Miq Millman — m…@sgi.com or {decwrl,pyramid,ucbvax}!sgi!miq  415 335 1041

How can one determine if there is a problem with a catalytic converter?

The specifics that lead me to this question are:

We have a recently acquired 1988 Olds 88 with 3.8L EFI in which the
mileage is lower than seems reasonable (19 mpg in long distance driving
in overdrive on the Interstate – friends with similar vehicles report
mid-20′s).  Also, I’ve noticed that the exhaust has a peculiar odor –
not unburned gas exactly, but obviously a hydrocarbon of some sort.
The odor is frequently noted after driving for several miles as we get
out of the car.  We have also noticed it faintly in the car on stopping
at traffic lights on a few occasions (presumably from the outside
ventilation intakes).

The engine appears to be in excellent condition (starts and performs
well) but there is some soot visible in the tail-pipe.  All spark plugs
are in good condition and were of normal appearance when removed for
examination.  A external examination of the exhaust system revealed no
readily apparent leaks or damaged components.

One friend mentioned that he had heard of catalytic converters becoming
"plugged" with a resultant increase in emissions and in backpressure
(with loss of mileage).  The problem is supposedly more apparent after
driving a distance and the catalyst has heated up.  Has anyone had any
experience of this sort?  Given that this is possible, I’ve considered
the hypothesis that the pressure in the exhaust system between the
manifold and converter is sufficient to blow past a seal and leak
exhaust in the engine compartment.  Comments?
—
—————————————————————————–
Keith Pyle                                UUCP: …!cs.utexas.edu!execu!keith
Execucom Systems Corp., Austin, Texas     Internet: ke…@execu.com
"It’s 10 o’clock.  Do you know where      Disclaimer: Everything I say is
   your child processes are?"               true unless I use the word ‘the’.
—————————————————————————–

        I was just wondering how a radar detector worked. I don’t want a
technical run-down, only a simple summary.
        The reason why I ask is I want to know if there is such thing as a
radar detector detector. I have heard there is but I thought that a radar
detector was a receiver not a transmitter, so how could anything detect it?

        Recently in N.S.W (Australia) radar detectors have been banned, a fine
is issued to any person having, selling or using a radar detector. Surely with
a radar detector being so small, you could to hide it in some place that
would be virtually impossible? to discover. Does the radar detector need to be
in any certain spot in the car for it to work (ie-sun visor).

        Any help would be GREATLY appreciated.

                Please reply by post or E-MAIL me directly.

Thanks heaps in advance.                Steven Short.
                                        ste…@wolfen.cc.uow.edu.au